Cedar Hill brings Southern-style BBQ to the Marina
February 2012
For those who live in the Marina, a heaping helping of Southern-style barbeque has meant a drive across town since Claypool’s closed at the end of 2004. But Cedar Hill Kitchen & Smokehouse on Scott Street – a quaint little joint with a Texas-built smoker onsite – is a quicker fix. The restaurant is named for executive chef and co-owner Jon Rietz’s Texas ranch. And Rietz, who most recently ran the kitchen at Memphis Minnie’s BBQ with Emily Lai, his current co-owner and general manager, sure knows his brisket and smoked meats.
There’s not much to Cedar Hill, just a narrow space with a scattering of tables, a small bar, and some old-fashioned photos on the wall. The menu is straightforward with plenty to offer in the way of flavor, and everything is available for takeout.
Basically, the barbequed meats are Texas beef brisket, Memphis baby back ribs, Cedar Hill smoked pork, and smoked chicken. Sweet-tea fried chicken is usually on the menu as well as nightly specials such as Cajun shrimp and grits. Select any one of the meats (you can also add on) and then choose two sides to go with it; all this is served up with house-made pickles and Chestnut Street Bakery pullman bread. Sides include pit beans with burnt tips, coleslaw, potato salad, collard greens, and sweet potato fries. Cedar Hill also makes a mean buttermilk biscuit served with local honey to help sop up your choice of sauces on the table: Texas red, North Carolina vinegar, and South Carolina mustard.
The brisket is especially good, meaty and falling-off-the-bone tender, and the smoked meats are rich and satisfying. The coleslaw is oddly salty rather than sweet, and the fries are tasty, albeit a tad soggy.
Starters include a few salads plus a smoked chicken and seafood gumbo made with chicken, andouille sausage, shrimp, and rice. Or try the crispy smoked pork boudin balls with house-made boudin sausage and smoked pork, served with sweet onion jam and remoulade.
Several Southern-style sandwiches are on the menu, such as the po’boy with shrimp, oyster, or half of each, plain or dressed; and the “Lexington” with pulled pork, coleslaw and mustard sauce. If you’re not a carnivore, a veggie plate with biscuits is also available.
Desserts are sinfully sweet. Try “Ruth’s buttermilk pie” with a graham cracker crust, buttermilk custard, and whipped cream; fried pies in chocolate ganache or seasonal fruit flavors, plain or a la mode; or a float with Double Rainbow ice cream and your choice of soda.
Speaking of sodas, in addition to Cheerwine (cherry-red soda) from North Carolina, Abita root beer from Louisiana, and Mexican Coke (made with cane sugar, not corn syrup), there is also house-made tea, both sweet and unsweetened. Bottled beers are available including Abita Amber and Rogue Dead Guy Ale, and draft beers include Scrimshaw pilsner, Dogfish Head 90 IPA, and Allagash White.
Homesick Southerners and barbeque lovers alike should check out this slice of Southern hospitality in the heart of the Marina.
Cedar Hill Kitchen & Smokehouse: 3242 Scott Street (between Chestnut and Lombard); Monday–Thursday 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Friday–Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. (closed Monday in winter); 415-834-5403, www.cedarhillsf.com
