The world’s best sandwich

Nothing says summer like a fat, juicy, ripe tomato, and the abundance of varieties now available in our local farmers’ markets. And almost everyone seems to have a tomato story ... Read More

‘Power lunches’ should return to Original Joe’s in 2021. Photo: Naomi rose

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Debunking the bunk about food and dining

A new year always begs for some nostalgia. We hope you enjoy this column from more relaxed times.

By Ernest Beyl

In case you haven’t noticed, I love writing about food. I love eating it, too. This column is about debunking the bunk about food and dining. For some time now I’ve been keepi... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Curry for Christmas: An ancient Indian culinary mystique of flavors

By Ernest Beyl

Yes, I know, food writers in December issues are supposed to write about turkey and roast beef for those year-end holiday dinners. But I’m going to write about curry. I’m a cur... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

The sixth annual Ernesto’s: Best of North Beach awards

By Ernest Beyl

Who would have imagined it? The Ernesto’s — six years! These annual Best of North Beach awards have taken on a life of their own. When I started the Ernesto’s, I was just loo... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Debunking the bunk about food and dining

By Ernest Beyl

In case you haven’t noticed, I love writing about food. I love eating it, too. This column is about debunking the bunk about food and dining. For some time now I’ve been keepi... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

An ode to chocolate on St. Valentine’s Day

By Ernest Beyl

Well, soon it will be Valentine’s Day, or St. Valentine’s Day as it appears on liturgical calendars. And I will be out buying a two-pound box of See’s chocolates for Joan, my... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

The spaghetti symposium

By Ernest Beyl

“Everything you see I owe to spaghetti.” — Sophia Loren Isn’t that a great quote? I suppose one could say the same about me. My fondest teenage memories include times ... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

The chop suey symposium

By Ernest Beyl

I’ve always thought chop suey gets a bum rap. It’s Chinese comfort food — the equivalent of my mother’s Depression-era hobo stew — a little of this, and a lit... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

The fifth annual Ernesto’s Best of North Beach awards

By Ernest Beyl

Here we go again. welcome to the Fifth Annual Ernesto’s. And welcome back Buster’s! Last year the Ernesto’s dropped Buster’s from the awards — not because... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

General Tso’s chicken is a phony, but General Tso was the real deal

By Ernest Beyl

General tso’s chicken is a phony — but it still tastes good to me. And, I assume, to you, too. Yes, there was a Ching Dynasty Chinese general named Tso. He was Tso Tsung-t&... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

My Father’s Pot Roast

He may have been cranky, but he sure knew how to make pot roast

By Ernest Beyl

My father was a retired San Francisco chef. When he was 90, we moved him into our large apartment on Telegraph Hill in San Francisco from his home in Oakland, where he had lived wi... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Fuchsia Dunlop: Unlikely heroine in the gastronomic trenches

By Ernest Beyl

If you buy books from amazon as I do, you will know that because of some arcane algorithmic magic, Amazon knows what kind of books you like. Amazon has me pegged as a reader of off... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Old and notable: Fior d’Italia, America’s oldest Italian restaurant

By Ernest Beyl

Loyal readers will note the Marina Times frequently discusses newly opened restaurants in the column New and Notable. I always read these dispatches with considerable interest. Som... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Edsel Ford Fung, Zeppelin Wong, and a Chinatown jook joint

By Ernest Beyl

One of the oldest restaurants in San Francisco’s Chinatown, Sam Wo, took great pride in featuring “the rudest waiter in the world.” His name was Edsel Ford Fung �... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts

Mrs. Abby Fisher: Another unlikely heroine in the gastronomic trenches

By Ernest Beyl

As some of my readers will know, occasionally I have published essays about people I call “Unlikely Heroes or Heroines in the Gastronomic Trenches.” Some who come to mi... Read More

Appetites and Afterthoughts