San Francisco is a brunching town, and here are some options to check out. One of the biggest projects of 2019 is the multilevel One65 (165 O’Farrell Street) from acclaimed chef Claude Le Tohic, which has just opened all its floors and concepts in a historic Beaux Arts building in Union Square. Le Tohic is known for gaining three Michelin stars while at the restaurant Joël Robuchon at the MGM Grand (the only three-star in Las Vegas); this is his own project, in partnership with the group behind Alexander’s Steakhouse.
On the street level is One65 Patisserie & Boutique, a contemporary French patisserie experience, with breakfast and lunch service and classic bistro seating in a black-and-white space designed by D-Scheme Studio. Freshly baked breads, pastries, chocolates, ice cream, macarons, and more are available. There is also barista service and a selection of wines on tap. Open Monday–Saturday 7:30 a.m.–7 p.m. and Sunday 8:30 a.m.–4 p.m.
Next on the second and third floors is One65 Bistro & Grill, offering brunch, lunch, and dinner from chef de cuisine Jennifer Dewasha, with contemporary Cal-French comfort dishes like steak tartare, a crispy onion tart with porcini, a seasonal stuffed artichoke, and dishes from their Spanish Josper charcoal grill, including skirt steak (and entrecôte for dinner). Fun fact: All meals are prepared using induction ranges and the Josper ovens, eliminating the use of gas throughout the building.
Sustainability appears with the recycled cork flooring and recycled porcelain paneling, and it has a sleek look, with white marble and wood tabletops. There’s tufted banquette seating by the windows, or sit at the counter facing the open kitchen.
Monday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m., 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Friday–Saturday 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m., 5:30–10 p.m.; Saturday–Sunday 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:30–9:30 p.m.
The cocktail bar and lounge, Elements at One65, is on the fourth floor. It’s a dark and dramatic hideaway, with dim lighting, private booths, and some lounge-y seating by the windows if you want to see who you’re drinking with. The black and gold quartz bar is a stunner. It’s overseen by bar director Trevin Hutchins, who came out from Maine, and his cocktail menu covers the four elements, with a couple large-format options for groups. You’ll find wines, and you can order bites from the Bistro (there is also afternoon tea service from 2:30–4:30 p.m., except Sundays). Open daily 11:30 a.m.–midnight.
And now, the final and fine dining concept on the fifth and sixth floors:
O’ by Claude Le Tohic. The O’ from the O’Farrell address reminded Le Tohic of the French word “eau,” meaning water. He was inspired to base a refined culinary concept and menu on the elements of water, fire, and earth. There is a 10-course tasting menu at $250 per person, and a 10-course vegetarian menu, with two wine-pairing options by wine director Vincent Morrow. The experience is meant to be luxurious but not pretentious, with some tableside preparations, and carts galore, including cheese and dessert, featuring artisan French and local cheeses and mignardises. Le Tohic plans to offer an à la carte menu in time as well.
The space was designed by Le Tohic and D-Scheme Studio, which integrates artwork from photographer and artist Christian Andrade embedded in the walls and as part of the architecture.
There is a spacious chef’s table for eight guests, with a view of O’s state-of-the-art kitchen. Additionally, there are two private dining rooms on the sixth floor: the Cherrywood Room (up to 20 guests) and The Moss Room (up to six guests). Open Tuesday–Saturday from 5:30 p.m.
MARINA
Fans of the Instagram-ready U Dessert Story in the Castro (which is just next door to the cult-like brunch outpost Kitchen Story) now have a second location to visit in the Marina, U Dessert Story, Vintage (2120 Greenwich Street). Taking over the former Mina Test Kitchen space, you can come in for Japanese, Thai, and Korean brunch during the day (9:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.) and then Asian desserts from 5 p.m.–midnight.
RUSSIAN HILL
While everyone is going bonkers and waiting in line at Daily Driver in Dogpatch for wood-fired bagels, have you ever had chef Andrew McCormack’s bagels at his pop-up brunch on Feastly, Early to Rise (1098 Jackson Street)? They’re about as outstanding as his eggs Benedict (and his house-made English muffins). And now, Eater has noted he has landed a permanent location in the former The Fine Mousse on Nob Hill (he has partnered with TFM’s Ben Rogers — who still had the lease — on this project). You can check out the prix-fixe brunch service on weekends, which can be prebooked and is served at 11 a.m. ($25) or 1 p.m. ($38). Bottomless low-ABV Italian greyhounds, just $15. Look for expanded hours and more soon.
Marcia Gagliardi writes a popular insider weekly e-column, Tablehopper. Follow @tablehopper on Twitter and Instagram.
