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Weekend Traveler

The riches of Amador County

Enjoy Jeff Renquist Wines. Photo: Bo Links

Nestled in the Sierra Nevada’s historic Gold Rush region, Amador County is a year-round playground — ski and snowboard in the winter, whitewater raft and pick luscious fruit in the spring and summer. Pan gold whenever you’re feeling lucky. And enjoy delicious wine every month of the year.

Amador County is packed with history, beauty, and friendly people. Spanish for “one who loves,” the area was named for the gold miner who created a successful mining camp near what is now Amador City in the 1850s. Home to some of the most lucrative mines, the area now boasts historic towns that have maintained their authentic charm.

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During a weekend jaunt, my husband and I toured the county (which stretches out along Highway 49), stopping in Plymouth, Amador City, and the lush Shenandoah Valley. Here’s what we found.

STAY

In the once-booming town of Amador City, discover the Imperial Hotel. Opened in 1879, this gem has been restored to its original luster. Our second-floor front room had high ceilings, brick walls, and French doors that opened to a grand porch. From here, we had close-up views of Main Street and the hills.

Downtown Amador City from the Imperial Hotel. Photo: Bo Links

Downtown Amador City from the Imperial Hotel. Photo: Bo Links

The rooms are cozy and offer a glimpse of what it might have been like to stay in one of the Mother Lode towns during an earlier, historic era. Today, guests at this friendly bed-and-breakfast focus on visiting nearby vineyards while exploring the past. A gourmet breakfast is included with the room (209-267-9172, imperialamador.com).

PLAY & SHOP

During the Gold Rush, Amador County was once the hotspot for growing grapes in California. But once the Rush subsided and Prohibition set in, the area was deserted. Now new growers and vintners are focused on creating great wines.

We started our tour in the lush Shenandoah Valley just outside Plymouth. With more than 40 wineries in the county, we had an interesting selection from which to choose. In addition to Zinfandel (the county is home to some of the oldest vines), this region in the Sierra Foothills boasts Syrah, Tempranillo, Roussane, Sangiovese, Barbera, and other varietals. The “wine drive’ is along country roads with beautiful views.

Jeff Runquist Wines was a great introduction to the region. The two side-by-side tasting rooms are open, airy, run by friendly and knowledgeable staff, and filled with wine enthusiasts. The winery sources its grapes from throughout California. Favorites include Tempranillo and Barbera (both 2016) and the 2015 Charbono (209-245-6282; jeffrunquistwines.com).

Discover the rich heritage at Borjon Winery. Photo: Bo Links

Discover the rich heritage at Borjon Winery. Photo: Bo Links

Continuing along scenic Shenandoah Road, Borjón Winery offers an intimate place to get to know the Mexican-American heritage and rich wines of the Borjón family. They’ve called the Shenandoah Valley home for 30 years, starting first in labor contracting and vineyard management, then adding winemaking to the portfolio. Don’t miss the 2014 Diferente Red Wine (50 percent Barbera and 50 percent Zinfandel) and these 2015s: Barbera Reposado and Zinfandel Reposado. They also have a rental property on the vineyard grounds (209-245-3087; borjonwinery.com).

Renwood Winery’s modern tasting room is set right off the road among the sprawling winery facility. Sample the wines at the inside bar or outside on the patio. Specializing in old vine Zins, try these Renwood 2015s: The Premier Old Vine and Story Vineyards. If you’re hungry, choose from a wine/food pairing or something from their deli (209-245-6979, renwood.com).

Stroll Main Street and take time to visit the Amador Whitney Museum. This treasure is home to the history of pioneer women during the Gold Rush (209-267-5250, amador-city.com/amador_museum). The Victorian Closet is filled to the brim with clothes, quilts, trunks, and other great antiques (209-267-5250, touramador.com/victorian-closet).

The town of Plymouth (dubbed “the gateway to the Shenandoah Valley” and established in 1871) has the same kind of ambience and charm as Amador City. The whole area is known for antiques, including Drytown, located between Plymouth and Amador City.

The Amador Flower Farm is a popular attraction with 14 acres of verdant gardens and picnic areas (209-245-6660, amadorflowerfarm.com). Elsewhere throughout the area and depending upon the time of year, find trails for hiking and biking, fishing, golf, and water and snow activities. If you want to get into the spirit of days past, pan for gold!

DINE

The Amador Vintage Market, in the center of Plymouth, is the place for a wine country experience. You can choose to eat in or get all sorts of goodies to take out. The interior space in the historic building combines an open dining/beer/wine and gourmet foods area with the kitchen and deli.

Amador Vintage Market offers a great wine country experience. Photo: Bo Links

Amador Vintage Market offers a great wine country experience. Photo: Bo Links

Alongside Highway 49 in the midst of acres of vineyards, we spread out our picnic and savored these homemade favorites: A classic Panini (grilled focaccia stuffed with fresh Mozzarella, basil pesto, balsamic) and the curried chicken salad (delicious chunks of breast meat, dried cranberries, celery, almonds — all combined with a curry mayonnaise). Don’t miss the cookies. (209-245-3663, bethsogaard.com/vintage-market)

Back in Amador City, the Imperial Hotel is home to the Hotel Restaurant & Oasis Bar. The bar and creaky wood plank floor are all reminiscent of the high times during the Gold Rush. Local musicians jam during Wednesday Happy Hour.

The restaurant serves whatever is straight from the local gardens. As a guest at the inn, you’re greeted each morning with a homemade breakfast like our luscious egg strata.

For dinner, we had the spicy Mexican shrimp to start and then the grilled pork chops — both tender and flavorful — paired with local wines, including some from Nine Gables Vineyard and Corinne. Afterwards, all we had to do was walk upstairs to our room. (209-267-9172, imperialamador.com)

The restored Imperial Hotel. Photo: Bo Links

The restored Imperial Hotel. Photo: Bo Links

Early in the day, find everyone at Andrae’s Bakery (209.267.1352, andraesbakery.com).

OTHER ESSENTIALS:

Amador Tourism Council: touramador.com

Amador Vintners Association: amadorwine.com

 

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Patty Burness can be found on Twitter (@pattygb), Instagram (pburness) and reached by e-mail at [email protected]